The concept of understanding furniture refinishing appears to be simple and in some cases this is true.
Applying a chemical to
the old finish, softening enough to remove with scrapers, brushes, pads
or what tool is appropriate. With the correct products and tools along
with time and patience, one can tackle a wood refinishing job.
Safety First - You need a very well ventilated area free from dust, follow any manufacturer's instructions on use.
Let's talk about the
time needed to get good final results, often people believe that it
looks easy enough and underestimate the time needed. Flat surfaces tend
to be less time consuming. When you encounter the detail (chair
spindles, grooves, carvings, any end grain, veneers) this is where your
time will be needed along with the proper approach. The detail can be
compounded when paint is present.
Gauging the time needed
to finish a piece is something that experience can only do. Chairs are
the most time consuming pieces of furniture you will encounter.
Depending on the current finish, (colour and type) along with the
wanted (colour and type) of finish there can be different approaches.
As a professional I can say that 4-6 hours of time is needed for each
chair to do a complete refinish. This can easily double or triple for
the rookie and again the more detail and the presence of paint will add
to this time. Some strippers can lower this time by dipping or power
spraying the stripper. However there are problems that can happen under
these circumstances. Glues can be loosened, veneers can peel, wood
grains can be raised and create problems later.
There are many species
of wood used in furniture, each having its own natural colour and
characteristics that can affect the ease of stripping as well as the
final colour. When you’re looking to get a colour match with other
pieces of furniture you need someone with experience. Simply buying
what appears to be the correct colour on a sample wood piece, can come
with surprises. Wood density (soft & hard woods) will absorb stain
differently, this density can vary not only from species to species but
also based on the way the wood was cut and how the grain is exposed.
When an old finish is being removed it is very important that no traces
of the old finish are left behind. This can cause a blotchy appearance,
some woods like Pine when stained always appear blotchy. Hard woods are
more difficult to get dark colours to absorb. With all the types of
products available it can be overwhelming trying to figure out what to
use. There are wiping stains, penetrating stains, gell stains, NGR
stains, urethanes, polyurethanes, varnish, oils, paint, shellac,
lacquer and they come in water based and solvent based forms.
If your still ready to tackle
that piece of furniture, make sure you know what you are dealing with
and how your going to get your end result prior to beginning. Many a
time I get the call after the customer has started, then realizes what
is involved.
Pricing tends to vary by
region and when getting quotes it is important to know the process the
refinisher is using. Hand stripping versus dipping, sprayed finish
versus a brushed or wiped on finish.
Using a professional
furniture technician will likely also give you that factory sprayed
finish, there are many craftsmen that still hand rub oils or brush
finishes on and do very good jobs. My opinion is that the sprayed
finish wins hands down.
Do the research,
understand what your up against and have fun, don't try and rush your
project. A great looking refinished piece is very rewarding!
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